Eastern Way

Leaving Amendoeira da Serra, we return to the previous day intersection and, turning right, we enter a wide road, which we follow for a few kilometers, until a deviation to the left in full descent that might go unnoticed. We are at the northern limit of the Natural Park of Vale do Guadiana.

With Serpa mountain range on the right in the horizon, we pass the ford over the stream Ribeira de Terges which, in some rainy periods of the year, may bring water flows that blocks the river passage. At these times, we won’t explore the slippery banks looking for alternative passages, but should rather ask for support in Amendoeira da Serra so they can transport us to an alternative path or even directly to the village of Cabeça Gorda.

We are already in Beja municipality, outside the protected area of the Natural Park. We follow successive hills for 8 km, stopping from time to time to enjoy the holm oak forests, the delicate yellow-flowered narcissus, Narcissus cavanillesii, or the purple thistle, Centaurea coutinhoi, which are both protected.In a crossroad already with asphalt road, we chose the direction of Vale de Russins village, the only point of support of this stage, so we choose to rest here. We get some supplies at the grocery store of D. Elisete Ramos, have a coffee at Taberna Romão and we keep in memory the conversations and glances exchanged with these few inhabitants, whose eyes shine again with the new “life” brought to the village by the Path of Santiago.

We move in the direction of Cabeça Gorda by dirt track. We find several estates and their flocks, and we are even surprised with a Chinese gate on our right, right in the middle of nowhere, witnessing for sure the eastern origin of its owner.

We continue through the middle of an extensive forest perimeter of stone pine. We enter the village of Cabeça Gorda, leave the stone path and enter the paved street João Martins Gonçalves. At the end, before reaching Praça de Magalhães Lima square, we see the Main Church. It’s a modest temple with expansions dating back to the 19th century, ordered by the Order of Santiago.

We can see that no one dares to circulate in the streets at the peak of the heat. At the end of the afternoon, through the streets of the village we discover some regional handicrafts.

In March, all the attention turns to a much appreciated delicacy, the Silarca mushroom. The Festival lasts three days and is dedicated entirely to the region and the Amanita ponderosa. In addition to the exhibition of regional products and gastronomic shows, we can see the inhabitants of Cabeça Gorda and its surroundings, in the art of harvesting this natural resource, in Portugal’s emblematic ecosystem.

We conclude the journey in the main square of the village, heading to the local parish council that will guide us to the available local accommodation.